Sharing Nordic Circular Competences facilitated the exchange of knowledge and solutions for the circular transition of fashion and textiles with a focus on the nexus between design and textile waste.
The initiative started out by looking into wasted textiles and found that large amounts of textiles were disposed of because of minor damage like pilling and holes. However, equal amounts were wasted because of non-physical aspects of the garments, such as poor fit or the perception that the aesthetics were out-of-fashion. This highlighted that brands cannot focus solely on improved functional durability but need to include aspects such as aesthetics and fashion in their understanding of quality. This further underlines the need for designers and those who handle waste to work closely together, learn from each other, and modify current design principles. It was also evident that correct sorting was a challenge for citizens but that this can improve over time if those handling waste invest in simple and consistent communication. They must also work together across the Nordics to fill gaps in sorting infrastructure and utilize each other’s competences in areas where knowledge is no longer widely available.
Next, the initiative delved into various experiences with producing and using recycled fibers in the Nordic countries. In all four participating countries, recycling methods are constantly tested and refined. Presenters highlighted that each recycling method has its benefits and disadvantages, but that current technology can produce fibers of acceptable quality to make new textiles. However, markets currently see low demand for recycled fibers from post-consumer textiles because of factors such as cost, uneven colors and variable quality. This prompts a need for quality improvements and better information to the producers on the properties of these fibers. Participants pointed to the need for testing recycled fibers as if they were a new type of fiber and for creating new design strategies to match their properties. For instance, this could involve material-driven design that focuses on designing for circularity. Finally, the actors from across the waste industry agreed that recycling is not going to solve environmental and climate related issues, but that consumption must be addressed in order to help solve them.
Our webinars also revealed that there are many ways to reduce the environmental impacts of textile processing and production. This involves using the right mix of recycled and virgin fibers to ensure the best possible quality and spinning yarn differently to create a natural stretch. It could also involve disrupting the traditional offshore production by utilizing local micro-factories to produce on demand. Similarly, biobased dyes are available for coloring all types of fibers and can avoid the need for harmful chemicals. Further technological advancements are needed but, most importantly, there is a need for brands to become aware of the existence of more sustainable alternatives to current practices and start utilizing them.
The initiative also addressed the need to evolve digitalization and traceability in the Nordics: Presenters discussed the potential for using Blockchain technology as a driver of new business opportunities, because it ensures transparency and authenticity of not just the product but the whole value chain. Finally, 3D processes have the potential to cut resource use and carbon emissions dramatically in the design phase of a garment by reducing the need for physical prototypes. However, the transition is difficult for companies and takes 3-5 years to complete. To sum up, many digital tools already exist to support circular business models and overcome many of the barriers that customers or brands face, but companies need to be aware of these tools and need help to implement them.